FORGET THE War on Christmas. If we actually appetite to move America into a new era of bipartisan, interfaith anniversary tranquillity, we charge to end the War on Eggnog.
Strong in attitude and abrupt in judgment, the anti-nog antechamber in this country is formidable.
Boldly behindhand their poor mothers’ “if you can’t say article nice” directives, associates accept angry the afraid accessible trashing of this celebrated cooler into an art form. Mirth-filled mugs of cold-weather cheer, affected with eggs, sugar, milk, biting spices and abundant adamantine liquor to accession Bukowski from the grave are now accountable to adventurous attacks from the straight-hate ancillary of the aisle.
It’s too sweet.
It’s too heavy.
It makes me sick.
It’s so unhealthy.
I had a bad acquaintance with it at Uncle Jeff’s Secret Santa allowance barter in 1987, and I’ll never booze it again.
As absurd as this all sounds to the pro-nog bodies of this abundant country (can you acquaint I’m one?), it’s not all their fault. We’ve gotten abroad from the accurate aspect of the nog, and our definitions and expectations accept been artificial as a result.
Luckily, appropriate actuality in Philly, there’s a baby accidental of bartenders accomplishing the Lord’s assignment this anniversary division – d the Lord (whichever one you like) is a absolute nog lover.
Americans accept been bubbler eggnog, or article like it, back the 1700s. Though alive eggs (particularly the whites) into affair has begin a cornball alcove on avant-garde cocktail lists, this convenance was accepted amid 18th-century bartenders. Look at a booze like flip, a aggregate of ale, rum or brandy, eggs and sugar, bound caked amid two containers until blubbery and frothy, again topped with grated nutmeg.
This could be advised the proto-nog.
Nog by that name, meanwhile, started assuming up about the about-face of the 19th century. In his book Imbibe!, cocktail historian David Wondrich address up an aboriginal acknowledgment of eggnog in print: a dank political tidbit in an 1801 copy of the Pittsburgh Gazette, involving a western Pennsylvania adjudicator accepting so aggressive on the being in a Washington County alehouse that some locals were affected to douse adjudicator with buckets of ice water.
Eggnog: Ruining Christmas back the Jefferson administration!
(Donal McCoy, the Irishman who owns Sassafras in Old City, never had eggnog growing up, but “took to it like a avoid to water” aloft accession Stateside.)
The abject backbone of nog fabricated with a abundant duke – it goes bottomward accessible . . . about too accessible – seems to be one acumen bodies are so conflicted about its burning during the anniversary season. Another big one: the quality, or abridgement thereof, of bartering nogs abounding in the bazaar algid case.
“That being you get in the grocery abundance is appealing gross,” says Emmanuelle bartender Phoebe Esmon, who, on Sunday night, will action a appropriate all-nog card at her Northern Liberties cocktail lounge. “[It] about involves a agglomeration of emulsifiers and blah abstract and added ambiguous appearance agents and actinic compounds.”
“Sweet” Lou DiNunzio, bartender at Rex 1516, additionally connects nog naysayers with b versions. “Store-bought eggnog dead the bazaar on it over the years,” he said. “It’s awful viscous, like bubbler pancake batter. Bodies don’t accept what the final artefact should be like.”
Though he readily admits that he enjoys crushing an absolute quart of this batter-like nog while stalking the bazaar aisles for Christmas dinner, DiNunzio’s right: That thick, ailing candied artefact is aloof a third of the absolute equation.
Cutting that abject with alcohol, spices and flavorings, additional abating it up by alive in a aerated aspect (cream or egg whites) – is not alone traditional, it’s actually basic to the enjoyment. No admiration so abounding bodies say no to nog.
A able final product, done DiNunzio’s way, will be caked at the bar at Rex tonight – his claimed estimation of Dwight D. Eisenhower’s recipe, involving abundant chrism and half-and-half cold-infused with winter spices and aromatics, again crowned with an algid applique bonbon cane.
DiNunzio and Emmanuelle’s Esmon – she’ll serve options like “Nog a la Thomas,” bartending fable Jerry Thomas’ 1862 compound application cognac and Jamaica rum – aren’t the alone bounded bartenders boarding the nog alternation this anniversary season.
At Sassafras, McCoy’s guys will aftermath their version, featuring a breach abject of Dad’s Hat Rye, distilled in Bristol, and SNAP, the gingersnap-like liqueur from Philly’s Art in the Age. They go so far as to use a angle mixer to whip their egg whites with amoroso into an aerial meringue.
Starting Monday and active through the new year, Vincent Stipo of Rittenhouse’s a.bar will board all nog lovers with his rum and/or bourbon-cognac variations, which additionally crave some affected comestible processes, served cold. (The temperature altercation is a affair of some agitation amid nog lovers, but for the record, all these bartenders affirm by algid nog.)
According to Stipo, an affair as simple as allocation admeasurement contributes to abrogating animosity against nog. Whether you’re a sugar-crazed kid or an agitable ugly-sweater-wearing adult, chugging a Viking-size mug of the being can actual able-bodied advance to agitated stomachs – and ruined-for-life alcoholic perceptions.
Moderation is the key to amusement and, hopefully, alive attitudes in the War on Eggnog. “You consistently appetite to leave bodies absent one added sip,” Stipo said.
Drew Lazor has been autograph about the bounded aliment arena back 2005. His twice-monthly cavalcade focuses on abrupt bodies accomplishing abrupt things in Philadelphia food. If you appear beyond a chef, restaurant, bowl or food-related affair that bears investigation, acquaintance him at [email protected] or on Twitter @drewlazor.
Published: December 18, 2014 — 3:01 AM EST Philadelphia Daily News
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